Why Skopje is a small city with a big
heart, and 16 reasons why the west is best and your chance to escape to
Santorini
Why go?
Skopje's
skyline tells the story of this Balkan city more vividly than any history book: socialist-era apartment
blocks, the minarets of Ottoman mosques, Byzantine domes, Turkish bathhouses
and, most controversially, neoclassical edifices, bridges and grandiose
monuments – the result of a recent construction spree aimed at bolstering
national pride. Now the building dust has settled, visitors will find much to
delight and intrigue them.
What to do
Get lost in
the narrow lanes of Caršija, Skopje's most atmospheric neighbourhood. Here,
you'll find Daud Paša Baths, once the largest Turkish hammam in the Balkans,
now home to the National Gallery of Macedonia (nationalgallery.mk). Cross the
Vardar River on the 15th-century Stone Bridge to Macedonia Square with its
triumphal arch, statues of national heroes and illuminated fountains. On the
slopes of Mount Vodno, a few miles out of town, the 12th-century St Pantelejmon
Monastery is a treasure trove of Byzantine art. After you've admired the
beautiful frescos, hike, or take the gondola, up the mountain.
Where to stay
Urban Hostel
is Skopje's best budget option, with a choice of dorms, twin rooms or
self-catering apartments in Debar Maalo, a lively neighbourhood full of bars
and restaurants (dorms from €13, apartments from €46, urbanhostel.com.mk).
Where to eat
Stara Kuka is
the place to try Macedonian specialities, such as stuffed peppers, shopska
salad, bean stew and barbecued pork ribs, in a 19th-century house with carved
wooden ceilings (starakuka.com.mk).
Insider tip
"Walking
along the Kej and eating in the restaurants that line the river is a
must," says Kathleen Beccue, who runs the K8 American bakery and café in
the Old Town (k8skopje.com). "Plaza de Toros and Anja are a couple of my
favourites. After dinner, buy an ice cream and walk to Macedonia Square. At
dusk you'll be treated to the call of the hooded crows which roost in the parks
around the city."
Home: go west with i-escape After a stormy few months,
boutique-accommodation website i-escape is showing its support for the West
Country by launching a "West is Best" campaign, with discounts of up
to 20% and added-value extras at 16 of its hotels and cottages, including the
charming Sea Garden Cottages on Tresco in the Isles of Scilly, and the Bull in
Bridport. Book before 8 May (i-escape.com/westisbest)
Home: escape to Santorini British Airways launches its first
direct flights from the UK to the Greek islands of Santorini and Mykonos next
month. A week at the simple but elegant Kamari Beach hotel with direct access
to a sandy beach on Santorini costs £466pp including flights from Heathrow,
based on two sharing a superior sea-view room, and departing on 18 May
(britishairways.com)
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